Sorkhab is a district of Tabriz, in the east of the city, and its name means red water, said to come from the colour of a stream that once ran through the area. Today it is best known as a quiet burial ground, the Maqbaratoshoara or Mausoleum of the Poets, where many of the city's great writers lie. The most famous is perhaps Khaqani, the twelfth-century court poet of Shirvan, and the cemetery also has Qatran Tabrizi, who wrote in the eleventh century, and Shahriar, the twentieth-century poet who wrote in both Persian and Azeri Turkish and died in 1988.
The place is a garden as much as a graveyard, with shady paths, rose bushes, benches and carved stones. A modern memorial hall with a domed roof stands at its centre, and visitors come to read poems at the graves, which is a common thing in Iran, where verse is part of daily conversation. It is a calm, pleasant place, a sort of antidote to the bazaar's crowds, and the cypress trees give a bit of shade in the heat.
The district lies on the slopes of the city's eastern side, not far from the old centre, in a mixture of residential streets and small shops. Traffic can be heavy in the mornings and evenings, but at midday it is easier to move. Most streets are narrow and one-way, so park the bike outside and walk. The summer sun is strong, and winters can be bitterly cold, with snow on the roads, which is a reason to visit in spring or early autumn.
Tabriz, with nearly a million and a half people, has no shortage of fuel stations and food. Near the Mausoleum you will find small cafés where students gather over tea, and bakeries selling fresh bread. If you are interested in poetry, a short visit is rewarding, and even without Persian you can feel the respect with which people stand at the graves. Dress modestly, speak quietly and take your time. Keep a few small coins for the caretaker, who will often offer help.