Sonamarg means meadow of gold, and in spring and early summer, when the flowers come out on the grass, the name seems fair. It is a broad, high valley of the Sindh river, at roughly twenty-seven hundred metres, about eighty kilometres north-east of Srinagar on the road to Ladakh, surrounded by snow-streaked peaks, pine forests and glaciers. In winter it is buried in snow, and it was once a stop on the old Silk Road routes that linked Kashmir to Central Asia, with caravans of traders, pilgrims and mules passing through on their way to Leh and beyond.
The ride from Srinagar is a day's pleasure in itself. You leave the Kashmir valley's flat paddy fields, cross the Sindh and follow it upstream through Kangan, where the valley narrows and pines climb the hillsides, and the road rises steadily along the river. The surface is generally paved but can be broken by landslides, water crossings and heavy truck traffic, and military convoys are a regular presence. Take extra care on the narrower stretches, where drivers overtake on blind bends, and be prepared for sudden weather, with rain, hail and low cloud possible at any time of year.
Fuel is the sort of thing that needs planning. Pumps in the mountains are few and sometimes out of stock, so fill up in Srinagar or along the valley before heading up, and carry a small spare if you have a way to do so. The nearest larger town is Pahalgam, though in practice it is on a different valley, and for the Ladakh road you should count on Srinagar and, beyond the pass, Kargil as your main stops. In Sonamarg itself there are simple lodges, tented camps and tea stalls that serve chai, maggi noodles and parathas.
From the town, a walk or pony ride leads to the Thajiwas glacier, a short distance up a side valley, which in summer feeds a cold river and offers close views of a tongue of ice. Further up, the trails to the Vishansar and Krishansar lakes and the Gangabal lake are among the great alpine hikes of Kashmir.
Check conditions before travelling, as security situations, weather and closures can change, and local police and tourist offices have the latest information. The best months are May to September, and the road beyond Sonamarg is closed for much of the winter.