The Ogasawara Islands lie about a thousand kilometres south of Tokyo, in the Pacific, and getting there takes a full day on a ferry, which is a good start to understanding why they have remained so special. The Bonin Islands, as they are also known, have never been connected to a continent, and as a result the plants and animals that reached them evolved in isolation, giving rise to a wealth of species found nowhere else. UNESCO listed the islands in 2011, and they are often called the Galapagos of the East.
Hahajima, Mother Island, is the southern of the two inhabited islands, reached by a further couple of hours on a smaller boat from the main island of Chichijima. It is a hilly, forested island with a tiny settlement, steep coastal cliffs and a ring of coral reef. The land snails of the Ogasawara are a famous case of rapid evolution, with dozens of species, and the forests shelter endemic trees and a rare fruit bat. In winter, humpback whales visit the surrounding sea to breed, and green turtles nest on the beaches. The reef, which extends around the island, is among the most northerly coral reefs in the world.
Riding here is not a matter of long distances. The islands have a limited network of roads, mostly short and winding between the village and the coves, and visitors rent scooters or small motorbikes or walk. The roads are narrow and steep, with views of the sea at every turn, and traffic is almost nonexistent. Typhoons can cancel boats and strand travellers for days, so allow extra time, and the best season for weather is spring to early summer, though winter is the time for whales.
Fuel is only available in the village, and on a small island it is sensible to start with a full tank and not to count on a second chance. The coastline offers snorkelling, kayaking and hiking, with guides required for some areas to protect the fragile environment. Remember that everything is brought from the mainland by ship, so prices are higher than in Tokyo, and the food is simple, with fresh fish and island lemons.