Soltau is a practical northern German town, and it makes no apologies for that. It sits on the edge of the Lüneburg Heath, on the Böhme river, and it has a pedestrian centre of brick buildings, a modest market, and a reputation as a place where families come for a day out, since a large amusement park and a thermal bath complex are nearby. For a rider on the roads of the heath, it is the best place for a lunch and a refuel.
The town grew around the salt trade, as many in the region did, and its name is thought to be related to salt, though its history is mostly that of a market town in an agricultural region. The surrounding countryside is heath, pine forest, and farmland, and the sandy soils support asparagus, potatoes, and sheep. Heidschnucken, the heath sheep, are a speciality, and the meat is dark and strong, often served with beans and potatoes.
The roads around Soltau are quiet and straight, with the sort of gentle bends that suit an easy afternoon. The minor roads through the heath are a classic route, with birch and pine alleys, open views, and a surface that is generally good. Speed cameras are common in towns, and the limits are strictly enforced, so keep an eye on the signs. In late summer, the heather draws crowds, and weekends are busier, with cyclists, cars, and horse-drawn carriages. Midweek mornings are quieter.
Soltau has everything you could need. Fuel stations are on the edges of town, supermarkets and bakeries are plentiful, and there are cafes and restaurants on the main streets. Neuenkirchen, about ten kilometres away, is a smaller place with fewer services. It is worth stopping for a proper German bakery stop, with fresh bread rolls, cake, and strong coffee. In winter, the weather can be cold and damp, with fog and frost, and the roads can be icy early in the morning. The best season is late summer and early autumn, when the heath is in bloom and the light is soft.