Solothurn has a habit of making visitors ask why they have not come sooner. It sits on the Aare at the foot of the Jura, about fifteen thousand people living in what is probably the best-preserved Baroque town in Switzerland, and for a couple of centuries it was the seat of the French ambassador to the Confederation. That gave the place a refinement out of proportion to its size: grand townhouses, fountains in every square, and a cathedral built in the eighteenth century in pale Ticinese style, dedicated to Saint Ursus.
The town has a thing about the number eleven. There are eleven churches and chapels, eleven fountains, eleven museums, and the cathedral's steps are laid out in groups of eleven. Locals will tell you the story with a straight face, and whether or not it is quite exact, it adds to the charm. The old town is compact and walkable, with arcades and painted shutters, and the river path, lined with plane trees, is a lovely place to eat a sandwich while the Aare slides past.
For a food stop it is ideal. There are bakeries, cafes with outdoor tables on the square, and a Saturday market that fills the streets with cheese, bread and vegetables. Fuel is plentiful on the ring roads around the centre, and parking for bikes is easier than in bigger cities, though in the old town itself you will want to leave the machine on the edge and walk.
The riding around Solothurn is a pleasant mix. To the north the Weissenstein ridge climbs into the Jura, with a road that gains height quickly and offers views over the Mittelland and, on a clear day, a long line of Alpine summits from the Eiger to Mont Blanc. To the south the landscape is gentler, farmland with the Aare carving lazy loops. Traffic in the centre can be slow, and the morning commute clogs the bridges, so aim for mid-morning or the quiet afternoon. The film festival in January and the farmers' markets give the town a lively rhythm all year, but late spring, when the lime trees bloom, is when it looks its best.