Socovos is the sort of village you only find by getting a little lost: a cluster of white houses below a ruined castle in the far southeast of Albacete province, where the plains of La Mancha give way to the tangled ridges of the Sierra de Segura. Solana del Molinico, close by, is one of the rock-art shelters in this corner of Spain that belong to the UNESCO listing for Levantine rock art. The word solana means a sun-facing slope, and many of these painted overhangs face south, catching the warmth on winter days just as they must have done when hunters and gatherers sheltered here.
The paintings in this region typically show small human figures with bows, deer, ibex and abstract patterns, painted in red ochre thousands of years ago. Many shelters are locked behind grilles to protect them from vandalism and the elements, and visits are often arranged through local town halls or interpretation centres, so ask in the village before setting out on foot. Even without seeing a painting, the walk through the scrub of rosemary, thyme and pine, with eagles circling above, gives you a feel for why people stayed here.
The roads in this area are a quiet treat. The route between Socovos, Férez and Letur twists through olive and almond groves, past rock walls and dry riverbeds, with very little traffic. Letur, a dozen kilometres away, is a gorgeous village of Moorish origin with narrow lanes, water channels and a waterfall right in the centre. Further west, the roads climb toward Yeste and Nerpio into deep pine forest. Surfaces vary; expect patched tarmac and gravel at the edges, and watch for livestock and hunters' vehicles in season. Spring and autumn offer the best conditions, as summer can be scorchingly hot and winters surprisingly cold at night.
For reliable fuel, food and lodging, the nearest town of any size is Moratalla in Murcia, about seventeen kilometres away, though villages here often have a bar and a small shop. In Socovos itself, look for a bar where you can order a coffee and a plate of local cheese or the hearty gazpacho manchego, a game stew served on flatbread that has nothing to do with the cold soup of the same name.