The eastern side of Sognefjellet is where the mountains show their best. The road drops from the high plateau to the valley of Bøverdalen, with views of the Jotunheimen peaks, including the Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in northern Europe at 2,469 metres, in the distance. Lom, the nearest town, is a village of about two and a half thousand people at the foot of the valley, with a famous stave church from the twelfth century and a long tradition of mountain hospitality.
For a rider the descent is a delight. The road winds down the hillside in long bends, with a river alongside and the valley opening out below, and the surface is smooth. The views are wide and the road is well graded, so you can relax and enjoy the scenery. Be aware of cyclists, who like to ride up from Lom, and tour buses that take the road slowly, and take your time.
Lom is a good place to rest, with a few cafes, a mountain museum, a bakery that people drive a long way to visit, and a stave church of dark pine, tarred against the weather and carved with dragon heads. The church is one of the largest of its kind in Norway. The valley farms still graze cattle and sheep in summer on the high pastures, and in the autumn you may see them driven down. The glaciers feed the river, which runs a milky grey-green with rock flour.
Fuel is available at Lom, which is a proper centre for the valley, with a petrol station and a supermarket, and it is the place to fill up before climbing over Sognefjellet. The road is closed in winter, normally from late October to late May, so check conditions in spring and autumn. The weather in the high mountains can change quickly, and the cold can arrive even in July, so be prepared. In the evening, the light on the mountains is soft, and the river sounds loud in the quiet.