Fortunsdalen is the quiet side of Jotunheimen, the valley that leads up from the Lustrafjord toward the high mountains. The road climbs steadily through birch woods and farmland past the village of Fortun and on to Turtagrø, a mountain hotel at the foot of the Hurrungane range, a cluster of jagged peaks including Store Skagastølstind, which rises to over two thousand four hundred metres. The hotel was a base for the first generation of Norwegian climbers in the nineteenth century, and a climbing club still has a hut there. Gaupne and Farnes are far down the fjord and the nearest settlements of any size.
The ride is a gradual one. Leaving the fjord the road works its way up a wooded valley with a fast, clear river, and the surface is generally smooth, with long bends and gentle gradients. The mountains grow closer as you climb, and the trees thin out into bare slopes, with waterfalls dropping from the cliffs. Early morning is lovely, with mist in the valley and sun on the high peaks. The road is also used by local traffic, hikers and cyclists, so keep to a steady pace.
This part of Norway was shaped by glaciers, and the valley is a classic U-shape with steep sides and a flat floor. The Hurrungane mountains are made of hard gabbro, a dark rock that climbers love for its grip, and they are among the most dramatic in the country. Wild reindeer roam the high plateaus, and golden eagles hunt over the ridges. In summer the meadows are full of wildflowers, and the air smells of cut grass and river water.
Fuel is not available in the valley, so fill up at the larger villages on the fjord, and carry on to Lom if you are heading the other way. Turtagrø has a restaurant where you can have coffee and waffles, and the setting is a fine one. The road over Sognefjellet is closed in winter, usually from late October until late May, and snow can fall at any time in the high parts. Pack warm gear even in summer, as the temperature at altitude can drop quickly.