Beyond the high plateau the Sognefjellet starts to drop, and this point lies in the zone where the descent begins to feel serious. It is a stretch of the road in wild mountain country on the west side, near the Turtagrø area, which has been a climbers' base for well over a century and sits below the Hurrungane, a cluster of sharp peaks including Store Skagastølstind, one of the most coveted climbs in Norway. Even if you never intend to touch a rope, the setting is magnificent.
The riding here is quite different from the top. The road narrows, the bends tighten, and the gradient increases as you head down toward the valley, so you will use engine braking and a steady hand. The surface is good, but the edges can be rough, and there are places where meltwater runs across the tarmac. Tunnels are few, but there are some short ones, and the temperature changes sharply when you pass in and out of the shade. Take it easy, particularly on a loaded bike or two-up, and be ready to meet vehicles in the middle of the road.
The nearest places with services lie down in the valley, at Fortun and further on at Gaupne, so check the gauge before you start the descent. A small hotel and hut in the area serve food in season, but they are not open all year. Water is plentiful, running off the mountains in streams you can often drink from, though it is wise to be cautious.
The geology is exceptional. The rock is hard, ancient gneiss and granite, carved by glaciers into steep walls and sharp ridges, and the valley has the characteristic U-shape of ice-cut terrain. In the evening, the peaks catch the last of the sun and glow pink for a few minutes. Late afternoon is a good time to be here, with fewer coaches and softer light, but remember that the sun sets over the western ridges earlier than you might think. Wear an extra layer and be careful with your pace as the temperature drops.