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Sognefjellet

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Sognefjellet itself is a long way from here, up in the mountains between Lom and Skjolden, and this finish point is not on it. It is calm farm country, a patchwork of fields cut into dark spruce, with small lakes and red barns, and it is where a long mountain ride can wind down gently.

The real Sognefjellet road, riksvei 55, is worth knowing about for the contrast. It reaches about 1,434 metres and is the highest mountain road in Northern Europe, crossing a bare plateau of snow patches, black tarns and glacier-ground rock beside the Jotunheimen range. It closes in winter and opens in late spring depending on the snow, so a ride that includes it is a summer ride. Coming back down to the lowlands afterwards, you feel the air thicken and warm, and the smell changes from cold stone to resin and cut grass.

Near here the great river Glomma slows and widens toward the sea, and at Fetsund there is a museum dedicated to the log floating that once carried timber from the mountains to the mills. For centuries that river was a road made of wood, and the whole economy of this part of the country depended on it. You can still see the old booms and wooden structures, and the story of how the logs were sorted and tied is well told.

The riding in this part of the country is gentle. Roads are quiet, well surfaced, and run through woods where elk are a real hazard at dusk and dawn, so keep your speed down when the light fades. Villages are small and sleepy, and a petrol station may be a stretch of kilometres away, so fill up in Fetsund or the larger towns before you commit to the back lanes. Coffee and a bun in a local bakery is the correct conclusion.

Read it in a ride

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