Socotra looks like a place assembled from another planet's spare parts. The island lies in the Arabian Sea, closer to the Horn of Africa than to mainland Yemen, and it has been isolated for so long that a large share of its plants exist nowhere else on earth. The most famous is the dragon's blood tree, a strange umbrella-shaped tree whose red resin has been traded since antiquity, and you will also find bottle trees with swollen trunks, frankincense trees and cucumber trees. The archipelago was listed by UNESCO in 2008.
The island's landscape is a mix of limestone plateaus, granite mountains, deep canyons and long white beaches. On the Diksam plateau, forests of dragon's blood trees cling to the edge of a deep gorge; at Homhil, a natural pool looks out over the sea; at Detwah lagoon near Qalansiya in the west, turquoise water meets white sand dunes; and at Arher on the east coast, huge dunes rise against the cliffs.
Getting here is the first challenge. The island is reached by limited flights, and tourism is organised through local operators who provide vehicles, drivers and guides. Riding your own motorcycle here is not realistic. The island's few paved roads link Hadibu, the main town, with the airport and some villages, and beyond them, tracks lead into the mountains and along the coast, best tackled in a four-wheel drive with a local driver who knows the way.
The political situation in Yemen is complex and has been affected by years of conflict, and control of the island has shifted in recent years. Travel advice varies, and anyone considering a trip should check current information carefully.
Hadibu, about thirty-six kilometres away, is the island's main town, with basic shops, guesthouses and restaurants. The Socotri people speak their own ancient language, related to the languages of southern Arabia, and live by fishing, herding and growing dates. Meals are simple: fish, rice, goat and fresh bread. The best time to visit is from October to April, when the seas are calm; from June to September, strong monsoon winds lash the island and flights may be limited. Camping on a beach under the stars, with the strange silhouettes of dragon's blood trees on the hills behind, is unforgettable.