Towards the western end of Socotra, the land narrows and lowers, and the north coast curves into bays of sand so white they hurt your eyes in the midday sun.
The western end feels different from the rest of Socotra. The mountains give way to limestone plateaus with sparse vegetation, and the coastline is broken by headlands and coves where dolphins are often seen. From Qalansiya, boats run along the coast to Shu'ab beach, reachable only by sea, with high dunes and clear water. Life here revolves around fishing, and in the early morning you can watch the boats come in loaded with tuna and reef fish, while children play in the shallows and goats nose through the nets.
The archipelago was listed by UNESCO in 2008 for its unique wildlife: about a third of its plant species grow nowhere else, along with many birds, reptiles and invertebrates. The calm waters around the west also hold coral reefs and rich marine life, especially in the months when the sea is flat. Yemen's long conflict means most governments advise against travel, and visits are typically organised through local operators, with guides and drivers who know the island well.
Bringing your own motorcycle is not realistic for most travellers, and touring is usually done by four-wheel drive or local transport. The road west from Hadibu is paved, but sand drifts across it, and beyond Qalansiya tracks quickly become rough. Fuel is available in Hadibu, and sometimes in Qalansiya, so plan carefully. Food is simple and fresh: grilled fish, rice, flatbread and dates, with sweet tea. Bring sun protection, plenty of water and patience, and you will find the remoteness is part of the reward.