Socaire is a small oasis village in the Atacama Desert, standing at about 3,200 metres above sea level on the road from San Pedro de Atacama to the high plateau. It is one of the older settlements of the Atacameño people, and the evidence is in the green terraces of the surrounding fields, which are irrigated by channels carrying meltwater from the mountains and still grow maize, alfalfa and other crops. After the dust and rock of the salt flats below, this small green patch comes as a surprise, with poplars, fruit trees and a little white church standing out in the dry landscape.
The ride up from San Pedro follows the edge of the Salar de Atacama, a vast salt flat that glitters in the sunlight, past the village of Toconao with its stone houses and orchards, and then climbs onto a high plateau. The road is paved in the lower stretches and in decent condition, with long straights and gentle bends, and traffic is light. The air thins with every kilometre, and engines lose power, so expect the bike to feel flat and slow. The sky is a deep, hard blue, and the volcano Láscar, with a thin plume of steam, dominates the horizon in clear weather. Winds pick up in the afternoon, so an early start is best.
Socaire has a few simple places to eat and a handful of guesthouses, and the people are friendly and used to travellers heading for the lagoons. Fuel is not reliably available, so fill the tank in San Pedro de Atacama and carry a spare can if you plan to go on to the lagoons and beyond. Bring water, warm clothing, a hat and sunscreen, since the sun at this altitude is fierce and nights are cold.
The surrounding landscape is austere and magnificent. Reddish hills, pale salt flats, dark lava fields and the cones of the volcanoes make a palette that changes with the light, and the silence is deep. Vicuñas graze on the high slopes, and at dawn you may see flamingos on the nearby lagoons. The altitude demands respect, so drink plenty, move slowly, and sleep low if you feel unwell. It is the kind of place that does not give itself away quickly, but rewards those who take their time.