The Lecht road, the A939 over the high moor between Cock Bridge and Tomintoul, is the star of the Snow Roads. It climbs to about 640 metres, with a steep gradient on the Cock Bridge side that was among the steepest in Britain, and its ski area is one of Scotland's smallest. The moors above are brown and purple in summer, bare and white in winter, and the wind blows constantly. The nearest town of any size is Ballater, about twenty kilometres back, and services are few, so keep the tank full.
Corgarff Castle, a plain white-walled tower house near Cock Bridge, is worth a pause. It began as a sixteenth-century stronghold, was burnt in a feud, and after the Jacobite rising of 1745 was turned into a barracks for government troops, with a star-shaped wall for muskets. Later it served as a base against illegal whisky distilling, a trade that thrived in these glens. The Highlands were a hard place, and the castle shows it.
The riding is a delight. The road rolls over open moor with big views, long sightlines and a mix of fast sweepers and tighter bends, and a few places where the descent is steep. Gusts can be fierce across the exposed top, and in winter snow gates close the road, sometimes for days. Even in summer the temperature can be low, with fog and sleet, so bring warm layers and waterproofs. Sheep and deer wander onto the road, particularly at dusk.
The landscape is stark and beautiful, with heather, peat bog and granite outcrops, and the wildlife includes red grouse, mountain hares, golden eagles and ptarmigan. The air smells of peat and damp earth, a very Highland scent. Early morning is quiet and clear, with the light low across the moor. A flask of tea and a sandwich make the most of the view, since there is nowhere to buy either on the top. In good weather, this is among the finest roads in Scotland, and you will want to ride it twice.