There is a mountain on the north coast of Snæfellsnes that has become one of the most photographed in Iceland, and it is easy to see why. Kirkjufell, the church mountain, rises sharply from the shore near the town of Grundarfjörður, a steep, pointed cone of rock that looks like a hat put down in the wrong place. In front of it, a small stream tumbles down in a series of falls, and the combination of mountain and water has been in more films and photographs than anyone can count.
The ride along the north coast is spectacular. The road follows the shore of the Breiðafjörður, with views across the bay to the mountains of the Westfjords on a clear day, and the bends are open and gentle. The surface is generally good, with some patchy sections after winter. In summer there is traffic, as the mountain is a favourite stopping place, and the car park fills quickly. Early morning or evening is better.
Kirkjufell is about 460 metres high, made of layers of lava and sediment, and it is a demanding scramble for walkers, with several accidents on the steep upper slopes, so keep to the lower paths unless you are experienced. The mountain was given a new fame when it appeared as the arrowhead mountain in a popular television series, which brought a wave of visitors.
Nature around the mountain is rich. The shores of the fjord are good for seabirds, including eider ducks, and in some seasons whales are seen from the coast. The grass is green and the air smells of sea and wet earth. In winter, the northern lights appear above the peak, and photographers come from across the world.
Grundarfjörður is a small fishing town with services, including shops and cafes, and it is the practical place to stop. Ólafsvík and Stykkishólmur lie on either side. Try to arrive when the light is low, and expect the weather to change.