Utrecht's canals once lay at the heart of a busy inland port, and the sluices and locks that controlled the water are quiet reminders of that system.
Locks and sluices in the Netherlands are small works of civil engineering, with heavy wooden gates, iron paddles and a keeper's house, often built in brick with a date stone. Barges still pass through them, along with pleasure boats and canoes, and in summer the waterside terraces around Utrecht fill with people. The canal network is part of the character of the city, and walking along the Oudegracht, with its wharf cellars now converted into cafés and shops, is the best way to see it.
The ride here is gentle and short. From the city's southern edge, minor roads follow the water through meadows, past farms with thatched roofs and rows of pollarded willows, and the horizon is wide and flat. These are narrow roads, shared with cyclists, who rule the lanes, so slow down and give them space. The Dutch road rules are strict, with fines for speeding and for riding without a helmet in some categories, so check the limits, which are generally 30 or 50 in towns and 60 or 80 outside. Parking for bikes is plentiful at the edges of the city, and the centre is a pedestrian haven.
Utrecht has all the fuel, shops, restaurants and hotels you could need, and De Uithof, nearby, has student cafés and little else. Local specialities include stroopwafels, thin waffles with a caramel filling, and a plate of bitterballen, deep-fried meat croquettes, with a glass of beer.
The best time to visit is late spring or early autumn, when the light is soft, the terraces are open and the crowds are manageable. Winter can be grey and damp, but a hot chocolate by the canal has its charm, and if the water freezes, skaters appear.