Skopje lies in the valley of the Vardar river, ringed by mountains, and it is a city that was knocked down and rebuilt in living memory. In July 1963, a powerful earthquake destroyed most of it, killing over a thousand people, and the international response was large; Kenzo Tange, the Japanese architect, drew up a reconstruction plan. The result is a strange mix of Ottoman old town, brutalist concrete and, in recent years, an expensive programme of neoclassical buildings and statues in the centre. Nearly half a million people live in the city, so fuel and services are plentiful.
The Old Bazaar is the best part, one of the largest surviving Ottoman bazaars in the Balkans, with narrow lanes, copper workers, tea houses and mosques. The stone bridge over the Vardar dates from the fifteenth century, though it has been repaired, and the Kale fortress above the river has a long view. Mother Teresa was born in Skopje in 1910, and there is a memorial house to her. Macedonian food is rich and tasty: tavče gravče, baked beans in a clay pot, shopska salad with sheep's cheese, and grilled kebapi with flatbread.
For a ride, Skopje is a good starting point for the mountains to the west. The road leads toward Tetovo, then climbs into the Mavrovo National Park, with the huge Mavrovo reservoir and the peaks of the Šar and Korab ranges. The surface is variable, with good main roads and rougher secondary ones, and drivers are fast and imaginative. Traffic in the city is heavy, so leave early. The air in winter can be badly polluted, as in many Balkan cities, so the best seasons for riding are spring and autumn.
North Macedonia has a long history of settlement; the lakes and mountains are among the oldest in Europe, and the region has many Byzantine churches with remarkable frescoes. Galičnik, a mountain village on the route, is famous for its traditional wedding festival held each July. Fill the tank in Skopje and bring water and snacks, as the roads into the mountains are quiet. The route is a lovely contrast to the busy capital.