It is a small seasonal campsite within the Skeleton Coast Park, open only for a short period around the Christmas and New Year holidays, when anglers from across Namibia drive up to fish the surf. For the rest of the year the bay is empty, and the wind has the place to itself.
The riding is demanding in a quiet way. The C34 salt road continues north, a long white line across dark gravel, and the combination of distance, wind and fog makes it a test of preparation and patience. Mechanical problems or a fall can be serious here, since help is far away, and mobile coverage is almost nonexistent. Ride within your limits, carry a satellite messenger if you have one, and keep a close eye on your fuel and water.
The coast is some of the most inhospitable in Africa, and yet it has a stark beauty. The cold Benguela Current brings fog that waters the desert and supports lichen fields on the gravel plains, tiny plants that wake up in the damp and turn the ground a pale green and orange. Dunes lie inland, and the surf is heavy, with strong rip currents that make swimming dangerous. Seals and seabirds are common, and jackals patrol the beach looking for scraps.
The history of this coast is one of wrecks, with ships that ran aground in fog and sailors who struggled ashore into a waterless desert. The name Skeleton Coast has been used for centuries, and it is easy to see why. Bleached bones, rusting hulks and the sound of the surf at night create a spare, haunting atmosphere. Few places on earth feel so completely cut off from ordinary life.
Entry to the park requires a permit, and gate hours and rules are strict, so confirm details in advance. Fuel is the main concern: supplies in the park are limited and not always available, and the last dependable source is Henties Bay, far to the south. Carry enough fuel for the round trip plus a margin, and bring all the water and food you need. Nights are cold, and the fog can soak everything, so pack waterproofs and warm layers, and then enjoy the silence.