North of Cape Cross the C34 enters a different Namibia, a stark, empty coast where the desert comes right to the water and the number of people drops to almost none.
For a rider, the salt road is the story. It is a pale, hard-packed surface that runs straight for kilometres, with the Atlantic on one side and gravel plains on the other. Long, uneventful sections demand attention, because the view hardly changes, and the fog can come in without warning, cutting visibility to a few metres. The surface can be slick when damp, and the corrugations on the gravel sections can shake loose a poorly fastened pannier. Keep your speed moderate, and watch the horizon for approaching vehicles, because the road is shared with the occasional safari truck.
The wreck of the Zeila, a fishing vessel stranded on the beach, is one of the landmarks near here, and the coast holds many other wrecks, some visible, some buried by sand. Shipwrecks, strong currents and fog have given the Skeleton Coast its reputation as one of the most dangerous shores for sailors. Rusty hulks, whale bones and the dark outline of stranded vessels give the beach a haunting atmosphere, and the cold wind off the sea makes it feel even more remote.
The Skeleton Coast Park requires a permit, which should be arranged in advance, and the gate has controlled opening hours. Without a permit you cannot continue north, so check requirements before you set out. There are no services along this part of the road, and the nearest fuel is at Henties Bay, to the south. Carry spare fuel, a good amount of water and food, tools and a first aid kit, and let someone know your plan.
Wildlife is sparse but remarkable. Desert-adapted oryx, springbok and jackals are sometimes seen, and a lucky traveller might spot brown hyenas or desert elephants in the river valleys. The cold air and constant wind make this a place to treat with respect, and the stillness when you stop the engine is memorable.