Cape Cross is the place on this coast where history, wildlife and smell all arrive at once. The seal reserve here hosts one of the largest colonies of Cape fur seals in the world, with tens of thousands of animals crowded on the rocks and beaches, barking, squabbling and basking. You will notice the colony long before you see it, because the odour is strong, a mix of fish, ammonia and salt that carries on the wind, and the sound is a constant chorus of grunts and bleats.
The site is also historic. In 1486 the Portuguese navigator Diogo Cão landed here and planted a stone cross to claim the coast for his king, one of the pillars that marked the progress of Portuguese exploration around Africa. The original cross was later taken to Germany, and replicas now stand on the headland, with a small memorial to the voyage. It is a remote, windswept spot, and it is easy to imagine how strange and forbidding the Namib shore must have looked to those sailors.
The road here, the C34, is a graded salt and gravel route that follows the coast from Henties Bay. The surface is generally good, though it can be rutted or slick after fog, and the wind and glare require attention. A turn-off leads to the reserve, where there is an entrance fee, a parking area and a boardwalk from which you can watch the seals at a respectful distance. Do not approach the animals, because the bulls can be aggressive and bite, and the smell clings to clothing and bikes for days.
Pups are born in November and December, and the colony is at its busiest then, though the seals are present all year. Black-backed jackals and brown hyenas prowl the edges, picking off weak pups, and seabirds wheel above the rocks. The cold Benguela Current brings nutrients that feed the entire coast, which is why so many animals can live in what looks like a desolate place.
Henties Bay, about sixty kilometres south, is the last reliable source, so arrive with a full tank and some reserve. There are toilets and a small shop at the reserve, but not much else, and the next services lie far to the north. Bring a layer for the wind, and a bag to keep your gloves and helmet from absorbing the smell.