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Skalica, on the way back

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The border here is the Morava river, which runs through flat meadows and woods, and it forms part of the frontier of the Záhorie, a region of sandy plains and pine forests between the Small Carpathians and Moravia. Until 1993 this was not an international border at all, since Czechs and Slovaks lived in a single state, and the crossing is now invisible, a bridge and a sign.

The town is known for a sweet, a spiral pastry called trdelník, baked over an open fire and rolled in sugar and walnuts, which has become famous across central Europe as a tourist treat. The version made in Skalica has protected status in the European Union, and bakeries around the main square sell it hot. The square itself is pleasant, with a Baroque church, a plague column and a Romanesque rotunda dedicated to Saint George, one of the oldest buildings in the region.

The land around is wine country too, and Skalica has its own small vineyard area, though it is better known for its Moravian neighbours across the river. The Baťa Canal, a navigable waterway built in the twentieth century by the Czech shoe magnate, runs close by on the other side, and boats and cyclists use it. For a swim, small lakes and gravel pits around the town offer bathing in summer, and the water is mild.

Riding here is easy, with flat roads through farmland and forest, mostly in good condition. Slovakia uses the euro, and fuel is generally priced a little lower than in Austria. Motorways require an electronic vignette, so buy one online before using them. The towns are well supplied with stations and shops, and Skalica has several. The nearest big city is Bratislava, about eighty kilometres south. Late summer is the best season, when the vineyards are heavy with grapes and the evenings are warm.

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