Muharraq has many mosques, and the Siyadi Mosque is one that people stop for even if they never go in. It was built by the Siyadi family, who were among the leading pearl merchants of the island, and it stands in the old quarter among their houses and shops, a plain white building whose simplicity is the whole point. In the Gulf, a merchant who had done well was expected to give something back, and a mosque was the obvious gift.
What you notice from outside is the proportion. The walls are smooth and pale, the doorways tall and narrow, the windows small, and the whole composition has a calm, upright look that suits the narrow lane it faces. There is little ornament, and that makes the details stand out: the wooden shutters, the carved lintels, the way the plaster catches the light. It is a working mosque, so the doors are open to worshippers, and visitors should respect prayer times and ask before going in.
Listen as well as look. In Muharraq the call to prayer comes from several mosques at once, a little out of step with each other, and in the old town it carries between the walls and echoes in the lanes. Dawn and dusk are the moments when the light and sound combine best. In the heat of the day the lanes are empty, apart from a cat or two, and the shop shutters are down.
Getting here by motorbike is simple enough, since the island is small and the causeways link it quickly to Manama. Inside the old quarter, though, the lanes are very narrow, some barely wide enough for a car, with blind corners and sudden crossings, so leave the bike on a wider street and walk the last bit. Fuel is cheap and plentiful on the main roads of Muharraq and Manama. Dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees, and move quietly near the prayer hall. In summer the humidity is heavy, and the cooler months from November to March are far better. Afterwards, find a small cafe nearby and drink the local tea, strong, sweet, and often flavoured with cardamom, and let the quiet settle.