Siurana is the kind of place that makes you slow down on the approach. The village sits on top of a sheer cliff in the Priorat, above a reservoir, with a few stone houses and a Romanesque church crowded on a narrow rock. From the road, you see it from far off, a little crown of buildings above an abyss.
It has a legend, as such places do. The last Moorish stronghold in Catalonia, it fell to the Christians in 1153, and the story goes that the Moorish queen, Abdelazia, rode her horse off the cliff rather than surrender, leaving a hoofprint in the rock. Whether or not that happened, the cliff is real, and the view over the valley is huge. Siurana is also one of the best-known sport climbing destinations in the world, with pale limestone walls that draw climbers from many countries.
The road is the draw for riders. The approach from Cornudella climbs in a series of bends with wide views of the Montsant range, and the surface is narrow but decent. It is very quiet on weekdays, and the village has a few cafes that serve coffee and simple food. Parking is limited, and the final stretch is tight, so take care when meeting cars.
Alforja and Riudoms, the nearest towns, have stations, and you should fill before you climb. The terrain is dry, with rosemary, thyme and wild olive on the slopes, and in summer the heat can be fierce. Carry water, and go early or late for the best light.
In autumn, the vines in the valley turn red and gold, and the air smells of woodsmoke and ripe fruit. In spring, the almond trees flower. It is a fine place to sit with a coffee and watch the clouds move across the hills.