In the caves of Nahal Me'arot, on the western slope of Mount Carmel near the coast south of Haifa, people lived on and off for half a million years, and both Neanderthals and early modern humans left their bones here. The four caves, Tabun, Jamal, el-Wad and Skhul, contain one of the longest records of human evolution anywhere, and they were listed as a World Heritage Site in 2012. Tabun alone has layers spanning hundreds of thousands of years. The Natufian culture, among the first people to settle in villages before farming, also left traces in el-Wad.
The caves are set in a limestone cliff above the coastal plain, with views west over fields and fishponds toward the sea. A nature reserve protects the site, and paths lead to the cave entrances, with displays explaining the finds. The Carmel's slopes are covered with Mediterranean scrub, oak and pine, and in spring wildflowers bloom everywhere.
The coastal road south from Haifa passes the site, and the Crusader fortress at Atlit, on the coast nearby, is still a military zone. Inland, the Carmel ridge rises to over five hundred metres, with Druze villages such as Daliyat al-Karmel and Isfiya on the summit; the Druze markets sell spices, sweets and crafts, and the restaurants serve excellent food. The Muhraka, a Carmelite monastery on the spot where tradition places the contest between Elijah and the prophets of Baal, has wide views over the Jezreel valley.
The roads over the Carmel ridge are twisting and scenic, climbing through forest with views over the sea and the valleys. A big fire in 2010 burned large areas of forest, which is slowly recovering. Traffic can be heavy near Haifa. Summer is hot and humid on the coast.
Daliyat al-Karmel, eight kilometres away, is the nearest reliable place for fuel and a meal, and Haifa has everything. Check current security conditions and travel advice before visiting the region.