The Sirdal highlands are the high plateau above the Lysefjord, a vast, treeless upland of granite, lakes and bog at about 900 metres above sea level. When you come over the top of the Lysevegen hairpins, the landscape changes completely: instead of steep fjord walls, you find a wide, open tableland, with low hills, scattered boulders and shining water. The vegetation is heather, dwarf birch and lichen, and the weather feels more like the Arctic than the south coast. There are no towns here, only farms and summer cabins, and the nearest services are some distance away.
The Sirdal region has a long tradition of sheep farming and summer pastures, and in earlier centuries farmers brought their animals up to the high pastures for the short summer. Hydropower has transformed the valleys, with reservoirs and power stations feeding the national grid, and the lakes you see are often regulated. Today the area is also known for winter sports, with cross-country skiing and a few small alpine resorts, and in summer for hiking. The Ryfylke and Setesdal valleys lie nearby, with their old farm buildings and silver-mining history.
The road across the plateau is a pleasure: smooth, with long, flowing curves and views across the lakes and low mountains. Traffic is light, and the surface is generally excellent. The weather is the main variable. Fog and rain can reduce visibility in minutes, and in spring and autumn, snow and ice are possible. Even in summer, the temperature at this altitude is cool, and wind makes it feel colder. Sheep roam freely and are not always obvious in the mist, so ride at a speed that allows you to stop.
Fuel is an issue, since the plateau has few stations, so fill the tank before you climb. The village of Tonstad, in the Sirdal valley, has services, and there are small shops and cafes at the ski centres. In summer, sun on the lakes and the smell of heather are the main attractions. It is the kind of place where you stop for no reason other than the space, and the quiet is a gift after the hairpins.