The Sirdal plateau is the high, open country behind the fjords of southwestern Norway, and it feels like another world. After the steep walls of the Lysefjord, the land flattens into a wide upland of bare granite, heather and small lakes, with the horizon open on every side. Few trees grow here, and the wind is a constant companion. Between the lakes stand scattered cabins, often painted red or left to weather grey, and in winter the whole area becomes a cross-country and downhill ski region.
The valley of Sirdalen cuts through the plateau, and its river, the Sira, has long been used for power. Tonstad, the nearest settlement of note at about twenty-three kilometres, is home to a large hydroelectric station that draws on the mountain reservoirs, and the area has been shaped by dams and tunnels. For centuries, though, the plateau was the domain of farmers who grazed sheep in summer and moved down in winter, and the sheep still wander freely across the open land.
For riders, the high road is a very different experience from the fjord climbs. The bends are long and open, the gradients are gentle, and the road runs across the plateau with wide views and little shelter. It is fast and flowing, but wind can be fierce, and the weather changes in minutes. Fog can come down and reduce visibility to a few metres, and rain can arrive sideways. Temperatures at nearly a thousand metres are often several degrees lower than at the coast, and even in summer a warm layer is worth wearing. Sheep, and occasionally reindeer on other plateaux, can stand on the road, so keep your speed sensible.
Services are limited. Tonstad has fuel and shops, but it is some distance away, and there are few stations on the plateau, so start with a full tank and carry a spare layer. Some mountain lodges and cafés open in the summer season, serving coffee, waffles and simple meals, but hours vary, so do not rely on them.
The light up here is wonderful, especially in late afternoon, when it picks out the ridges and the lakes. In autumn the heather turns red and bronze, and the air is clear and cool. It is a place to ride slowly and look.