Sion is the capital of the Valais, the Swiss canton that runs along the upper Rhône between two walls of high mountains, and it is dominated by two hills. On one, the ruins of the Tourbillon castle crown the rock, and on the other, the fortified church of Valère holds what is said to be the oldest playable pipe organ in the world, dating from around the fifteenth century. You climb to it by a steep stone lane, and in summer the organ is used for a festival. The two hills rise straight out of the town and give Sion a theatrical appearance, like a backdrop for something medieval.
Around the town the valley floor is flat and wide, but the hillsides are covered in terraced vineyards that climb surprisingly high up the slope. The Valais is the driest part of Switzerland, because the mountains wring the rain out of the clouds before they arrive, and the vines get abundant sun. Fendant, made from chasselas grapes, is the local white, and the region also produces Petite Arvine, Cornalin and Humagne Rouge, all wines you rarely see abroad. Sion's old town has narrow streets, small wine bars and stalls selling raclette, the melted cheese scraped onto potatoes that the Valais proudly claims as its own.
The Valais Wine Road is a pleasure for riders. It threads between the main valley highway and the vineyards on the northern slope, along narrow lanes through villages, stone terraces and orchards, with the Alps rising on the far side. The roads are small and well kept, but they carry farm vehicles and walkers, so ride slowly, especially in autumn at harvest time, when tractors and pickers fill the lanes. The warm sunny weather makes spring and early autumn ideal, while summer can be hot, and winter is generally dry but cold.
Sion has fuel, shops, workshops and a good selection of restaurants, and it is also a transport hub, with the Simplon road toward Italy and the Rhône valley highway nearby. Many riders use it as a base for the passes of the Valais, including the Grand St Bernard to the southwest. Set aside an hour for Valère, and allow another for tasting a glass or two in the evening, once the bike is parked.