Silverton sits at about 2,830 metres in the San Juan Mountains, and it looks like a town on the edge of the world. Mountains close in on every side, snow lingers on the peaks well into summer, and the main street is wide and dusty, lined with false-front buildings from the silver boom. It was founded in the 1870s as a mining camp, and the miners dug deep into the surrounding hills for silver and gold. The town is now a National Historic Landmark, and it still has the feel of the frontier, with a population of only a few hundred people.
A narrow-gauge steam railway runs into Silverton from Durango, and the coal-fired locomotives still pull passenger trains on the line that opened in 1882, to carry ore and supplies. When the train arrives, the whole town fills with visitors, and the whistle echoes off the mountains. Blair Street, once the town's notorious red-light district, has restored buildings that house cafés, shops and saloons, and a walk down it gives a sense of the roughness of the old days.
For riders, Silverton is the beginning or the end of one of the most celebrated roads in the American West. The Million Dollar Highway, US 550, runs north to Ouray over Red Mountain Pass at about 3,350 metres, a narrow road with sheer drops, no guardrails in places and tight switchbacks cut into the cliffs. It is a thrilling ride, but it demands full concentration, and it can be closed by snow or avalanche from late autumn to spring. Even in summer, storms can bring hail and slick roads. Take it slowly, stay in your lane, and use pull-outs to let faster traffic pass.
The altitude is a serious matter too. Air at this height is thin, so engines run slightly less strongly, and riders can feel headaches or breathlessness if they have come up quickly from sea level. Drink water, eat well and pace yourself. Fuel is available in Silverton, but supplies can be limited and prices are high, so fill up when you can. Telluride, to the west, is the other nearest town, though it is reached by a longer road.
Food in town ranges from diner breakfasts to green chile stews and burgers, and many places close early or shut for the off season. Check hours before you plan a meal, and leave before dark.