Sikachi-Alyan is a Nanai village on the right bank of the Amur, a long way downstream from Khabarovsk, and it is famous for something that makes the journey worth it: the rock carvings. On basalt boulders on the river shore, ancient people pecked and scratched faces, animals, boats and spirals that archaeologists estimate to be thousands of years old, perhaps among the oldest art in this part of Asia. The images are strange and compelling, round faces with wide eyes, some staring up from the stone like masks. The Nanai, who still live here and in neighbouring villages, treat the site with respect, and so should visitors.
The road to the village follows the Amur through flat, open land of river meadows, willows and marsh, with Knyaze-Volkonskoye, a town of about nine thousand people, the nearest sizeable place some thirty-five kilometres away. That is where you should fill the tank, buy food and water and use a proper toilet, because the village is small and its services thin. Expect asphalt that varies from good to rough, wide, easy bends and plenty of space to look at the river. Traffic is light, mostly local, and in summer the air carries the smell of wet grass and woodsmoke. Mosquitoes can be a trial, so bring repellent.
The Amur is the dominant presence. It is one of the longest rivers in the world, and here it spreads out to a vast width, with sandbars, channels and islands. Floods in late summer can cover the lowlands and make some tracks impassable, so ask locally before heading toward the shore. The best months for riding are June to September, with warm days and long light, though the rains of July and August can be heavy. Autumn is clear, quiet and colourful.
If you are curious about the culture, take time to meet the people. The Nanai, who also live across the border in China, have a rich tradition of fishing, shamanism and storytelling, and their art and crafts, including fish-skin clothing, are known far beyond the region. A small museum or cultural centre may be open in the area, but opening hours are not guaranteed. Whatever you find, go slowly and be respectful, and take a moment at the boulders to imagine the hands that made them.