The Roman frontier in Germany, the Limes, ran for over five hundred kilometres from the Rhine to the Danube, a line of palisades, ditches, walls, watchtowers and forts that marked the edge of the empire. In the Wetterau, north of Frankfurt, the Limes swung east in a great bulge to enclose this fertile plain, which the Romans valued for its farmland. In the woods near Wölfersheim stood a signal tower, one of the many small posts along the line, and today its remains are part of the Upper German-Raetian Limes, listed by UNESCO in 2005 as part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire.
There is not much to see on the ground: a low mound or the outline of foundations in the forest, perhaps with an information board. But it is a peaceful spot, and the woods are pleasant for a short walk. Elsewhere along the Limes, reconstructions of towers and forts help you imagine what the frontier looked like.
The Wetterau is a gentle landscape of fields, orchards and villages, with the hills of the Taunus to the west and the Vogelsberg to the east. Above the small town of Münzenberg rises a castle with two tall round towers, known locally as the Wetterau inkwell for its shape. It was built in the twelfth century by imperial officials and is one of the finest Romanesque castles in Germany. The views from the top over the plain are excellent.
The riding in the Wetterau itself is flat and easy, with straight roads through fields and villages. Traffic can be heavy near Frankfurt and on the main roads. The best riding lies to the east, in the Vogelsberg, an extinct volcano with a network of winding roads through forests and meadows, very popular with motorcyclists. The roads around Schotten and the Hoherodskopf are particularly good, with many bends, climbs and views. Be aware that some roads in the region have weekend restrictions or speed limits for motorcycles because of noise and accidents.
Wölfersheim and Münzenberg have fuel, shops and restaurants. The region is known for its apple wine, Ebbelwoi, served in a grey and blue stoneware jug, and for hearty Hessian food, such as Handkäs mit Musik, a sour cheese with onions. The weather is mild, with warm summers and cool winters.