Pipes of a giant church organ, frozen in stone: that is what the Spanish saw when they named the Sierra de Órganos, a range of rock formations in the north-west of the state of Zacatecas, near the border with Durango. The columns and pinnacles of volcanic rock rise from the high desert, carved by wind and water into strange shapes, and the area is a national park, protected for its geology and its landscape of grassland, oak and pine.
The landscape has attracted filmmakers for decades. Durango and the surrounding region became a centre for the production of Western films in the mid-twentieth century, and many Hollywood Westerns were shot in the area, including some starring John Wayne, who loved the region. The rocks and open spaces of the Sierra de Órganos provided dramatic backgrounds. Today, the park has camping areas, cabins and trails for walking and climbing among the rocks, and it is a peaceful place far from the cities.
The riding in this part of Mexico is through high, open country, with long straight roads across the plains and some winding sections in the hills. The altitude, over two thousand metres, means cool mornings and evenings, even in summer, and the light is bright and clear. The roads are generally paved, but surfaces vary, and topes, speed bumps, appear without warning in villages. Traffic is light, but trucks are common on the main roads. The rainy season, from June to September, brings afternoon storms, and the dry season is the best time to visit.
The nearest larger towns are Sombrerete, a colonial mining town with fine churches, and Vicente Guerrero, both with fuel and services. Villages closer to the park have basic services. The local food is northern Mexican: carne asada, gorditas, thick corn pockets filled with meat or beans, and caldillo duranguense, a beef stew from Durango. Watching the sunset over the rock formations, with the columns glowing red and orange against the sky, is a spectacular experience.