Shymbulak is the ski resort Almaty keeps above itself like a spare room. The base sits at around 2,200 metres in the Zailiysky Alatau, reached by a steep road above Medeu or by a gondola lift, and from there chairlifts and cable cars carry skiers higher, to slopes at over three thousand metres. In winter it fills with skiers and snowboarders from across Kazakhstan; in summer it is quieter, with hikers, mountain bikers and people simply escaping the heat of the city.
The ride up from Medeu is a short, steep workout. The road climbs in a series of tight bends and hairpins through spruce forest, with a sudden change in air temperature and light as you gain height. The surface is usually decent, but weather and winter can leave frost heave, rockfall debris and loose gravel on the edges. Traffic is the real difficulty, especially on weekends, when cars queue for parking at the top. A weekday morning is a better bet, and so is a late start in winter, once the sun has softened the ice.
The mountain scenery is first class. Behind the resort, the valley narrows into a wall of rock and snow, with the peaks of the Trans-Ili range showing sharp and white. Spruce forest covers the lower slopes, and in summer, alpine meadows are full of flowers. Weather can change quickly: sun, cloud and cold rain can follow one another within an hour, and in shoulder seasons snow can appear unexpectedly. It is always cooler than in Almaty, often by ten degrees or more, so a layer is wise.
At the base, a village of hotels, restaurants and cafes offers hot meals and drinks, and it makes a comfortable stop for lunch with a view. In winter, check whether the road requires chains or is closed during snowfall. It is not a place for racing, but a good one for sitting with a hot tea and looking up.