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Shkotovo

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Shkotovo is a town of about five thousand people in the south of Primorsky Krai, set among the low wooded hills that sit between the Ussuri Bay and the interior. It lies in the belt of country between Vladivostok and Nakhodka, the two big ports of the south coast, and the countryside around it is typical of the region: oak and birch woods mixed with Manchurian walnut and wild grape, fields in the valleys, and occasional views of the sea from the ridges. It gives the first hint that the Russian Far East is closer to Korea and Manchuria than to Moscow, in both climate and character.

As a ride, this is gentle, flowing country. The roads curve through the hills with easy gradients, a mostly good surface, and a steady flow of lorries heading to the ports, so keep an eye on your mirrors and be patient on the climbs. Summer here is warm and humid, with monsoon fog and heavy rain, particularly in July and August. Autumn is the best time, with dry, clear weather and brilliant colour in the forest, while spring can be foggy and cold. A waterproof jacket should be standard kit.

With its size, Shkotovo has fuel, shops and cafes, and nearby Smolyaninovo, with more than six thousand people, adds further options. The big cities on either side, Vladivostok and Nakhodka, have everything else. There is no reason to linger, but a bowl of hot soup and a coffee make a good break. Ask for local honey, which comes from the region's forests and is among the best in the country, and for smoked fish or crab, depending on the season.

The wider area has more going on than the road suggests. The Sikhote-Alin mountains lie to the north and east, and they are the home of the Amur tiger, one of the rarest big cats on earth, along with bears and sika deer. You will not see them from a motorcycle, but the forest behind the town is part of their world, and it explains the empty look of the hills. Take it slowly, watch for animals at dusk, and enjoy a road that feels like the start of something bigger.

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