The Shiretoko Pass, at around 740 metres, is the high point of the road across the peninsula and one of the great viewpoints in Hokkaido. From the car park at the top, the land falls away on the Okhotsk side to a wide sea of dark water, and ahead, across the Nemuro Strait, lies the long low outline of Kunashir Island, which is held by Russia but claimed by Japan. Behind you, the volcanic spine of the peninsula, with Mount Rausu rising above 1,600 metres, crowds the horizon. On a clear day, the view is among the finest in the north of Japan.
The road climbs from Utoro in a series of long bends through dense forest of Erman's birch, fir and bamboo grass, before emerging into a landscape of low scrub and open sky. It is a smooth, well-surfaced road with generous bends, and traffic is light outside summer. The weather can be wild, with fog, wind and sudden rain. The pass is closed from late autumn to spring because of snow, and sometimes in bad weather, so check conditions before setting out. The road is also closed at night in some seasons, to protect wildlife.
The area is among the best places in Japan to watch for brown bears, and they are sometimes visible in the open slopes beside the road. Keep your distance, stay in view of your bike, and never leave food around. Bear bells and noise can help in forest walks nearby. Red foxes, deer and Blakiston's fish owl live on the peninsula, along with sea eagles that arrive from Russia in winter.
A viewing platform provides a place to rest, and the nearest services are at the foot of the pass. The air at the top is cool and fresh, and a flask of hot tea tastes wonderful. Visit in July or August for the best weather, and in early autumn for colour.