Shiretoko Pass crosses the spine of the peninsula at 738 metres, and it is the high point of the road between Utoro and Rausu. The climb from the Utoro side runs through forest, then the trees thin and the road emerges onto an open shoulder of mountain, with the sea dropping away on the Okhotsk side and, on the other, the water of the Nemuro Strait. The view from the lookout is one of the finest in Hokkaido, taking in the volcanic peak of Mount Rausu, a little over 1,600 metres, rising behind.
On clear days you can see across the strait to Kunashir, one of the southern Kuril Islands, whose volcanic outline appears remarkably close. The island is administered by Russia, but Japan claims it as part of the Northern Territories, and the sight of land so near that is out of reach gives the lookout a poignant charge that no sign can explain. People tend to fall quiet there, then take a lot of photographs.
The pass road is a seasonal one: heavy snow closes it through winter, usually until spring, so check the status before you plan a crossing. In the open season the surface is good and the bends are smooth, with gradients that are steady rather than severe, and plenty of places to pull over. Mist and fog are frequent, particularly in summer when cool, moist air rises off the sea, and the temperature at the top can be many degrees below the coast, so a warm layer is wise.
Wildlife is part of the experience. Brown bears are present in Shiretoko in significant numbers, though sightings from the road are usually brief, and Ezo deer and foxes are common. Do not stop on the carriageway for animals, and never leave food visible. There is no village at the summit, only the lookout and parking, so carry water and a snack and arrive with fuel from Utoro or Rausu, the two small towns at either end. On a clear evening, the light on Kunashir is enough to justify a long wait.