Furano sits in a long, flat valley in the middle of Hokkaido, with the Tokachi range rising to the east and the Yūbari mountains to the west, and the town calls itself the island's navel. It even holds a summer festival in honour of the claim, with residents painting faces on their bellies and dancing through the streets. That sense of humour suits the place: Furano is a friendly, relaxed farming town that has become one of Hokkaido's best-loved destinations without losing its everyday character.
The valley is famous for lavender. Farmers began growing it in the mid-twentieth century for perfume oil, and when the market collapsed, the fields survived because photographers and visitors started coming to see them. In July the slopes around Furano and neighbouring Nakafurano turn purple, and the air smells of it for kilometres. Other crops fill the rest of the valley: melons, which are a local pride, onions, carrots, wheat, and grapes for a local winery. A long-running Japanese television drama about a family living in the wilds near Furano made the town famous in the 1980s and 1990s, and some of the sets remain as attractions.
In winter the valley turns into a ski resort, with dry, powdery snow and a slope that has hosted World Cup races. Summer and early autumn are the riding seasons. The roads around Furano are wide and quiet, with gentle curves along the valley and through the farmland, and climbs into the hills towards Biei or over to the Tokachi side offer more interesting corners. Wildlife, including deer, crosses the roads at dawn and dusk, and the weather can change quickly, with mist and rain coming over the mountains.
Furano has fuel, convenience stores, cafes and supermarkets, all within a few streets of each other, so refuelling bike and rider takes no planning at all. Local dishes include curry topped with an omelette, a speciality that local restaurants promote as their own, along with dairy products and cheese from the area. If you have time, a short walk through the lavender fields or a visit to one of the farm shops makes a gentle break, and in the evening the light over the Tokachi range is something special.