Shikinaen is a villa garden on the southern edge of Naha, built at the end of the eighteenth century as a second residence for the Ryukyu royal family. It was also used to host envoys sent from China, who came to invest each new king, and who were treated to feasts, music and walks through the grounds, in a ritual of diplomacy that kept the small kingdom on good terms with its powerful neighbour. The design blends Chinese and Japanese ideas with local ones, with a pond at the centre, a stone bridge, a pavilion and walkways laid out among trees.
The garden was heavily damaged during the Second World War and has been restored, and it is part of the UNESCO listing of the Ryukyu sites. The main building is a low house in the Okinawan style, with a tile roof, open verandas and sliding screens, and it faces the pond with a view of islands in the miniature landscape. The charm lies in the quiet details: stone lanterns, curved bridges, and the shade of old trees. It is a good place to sit for a while on a hot day, and a modest entrance fee is charged.
Riding in southern Okinawa is mostly urban or suburban, with Naha's dense roads and bridges. Traffic moves on the left, often slowly, with many traffic lights, and roadworks are common. In a city where the monorail runs overhead and large American military installations occupy chunks of land, the garden provides a sudden pocket of calm. Parking can be tight, so look for motorbike bays and leave the bike in the shade if possible. Tomigusuku and Naha have every service you might need, including fuel on nearly every main road, convenience stores and many restaurants.
The climate is subtropical, with hot, humid summers and a typhoon season that peaks between August and October. Winters are mild, with temperatures that are comfortable for riding, and the best time to visit is between November and April, when the air is dry and the light is clear.
Afterwards, try a bowl of Okinawan soba, a plate of goya champuru, and a glass of awamori, if you are not riding, or a cup of jasmine tea if you are.