Shawinigan was once called the City of Energy, and the title still fits. In the late nineteenth century the falls on the Saint-Maurice River provided power for factories, and by the early twentieth century this was one of the biggest industrial centres in Quebec, producing aluminium, pulp, paper and chemicals. Electricity made the town, and the long lines running out to Montreal showed how much power was available. The old plants are still scattered along the river, and the Cité de l'énergie lets you look at the industry from an observation tower.
The Saint-Maurice itself is the quiet hero. For two centuries, loggers sent timber down this river from the forests of the interior, with men riding the logs on the spring flood in a tradition that shaped the identity of the whole valley. Today the river is steady and wide, with cliffs and forest on both sides, and you can find pleasant views from the roads and bridges. Shawinigan is also the hometown of former prime minister Jean Chrétien, a fact that locals mention with a certain humour.
The riding north from here follows Route 155, which runs up the valley through the forests of the Mauricie. The road is mostly broad, well surfaced and gently curving, with rolling hills and bends that carry you along the river. The land is wooded, with spruce, birch and maple, and the colours in early October are exceptional. Mauricie National Park lies to the west of the road, with lakes and trails for a break from the bike. Traffic is light outside commuting hours, though logging trucks use the highway, so keep your distance and pass with care.
Shawinigan has about thirty-eight thousand residents, so everything you need is in town: fuel, supermarkets, restaurants and a range of hotels. After this, the road to the north gets quieter and the villages smaller, so top up here if you have any doubt. Try a plate of poutine or a maple treat in one of the local diners before heading onto the highway.