Shakpak-Ata is another of the holy places of the Mangystau region, a desert shrine in the northern part of the peninsula, where the rocky Ustyurt plateau drops into canyons and dry valleys of white and orange stone. The name refers to a revered figure, Shakpak, who is said to have been a Sufi saint of the area, and the complex is built into the slope of a ravine, with prayer rooms, an underground mosque and a necropolis of carved gravestones, some of them marked with symbols of horses and weapons that tell of the clan's history.
The ride here is an exercise in distance and silence. Taūshyq, a village of a couple of thousand people about twenty kilometres away, is the closest settlement. On the final stretch, the road may shrink to gravel or desert track, with wheel ruts, patches of soft sand and the occasional steep dry wash, so a bike with decent ground clearance and a rider with experience will be happier than a heavy tourer. Wind is routine, heat is intense in summer, and the nights can freeze in winter. The light, especially in the evening, turns the cliffs a deep rose.
Pilgrims come here from all over Kazakhstan, and the tradition of walking, sleeping at the shrine and praying is an old one. You will often meet families sharing food and tea in simple guesthouses or in the open air, and a stranger who arrives politely is usually welcomed. Dress conservatively, take off your shoes where others do, and ask before taking photographs, particularly of worshippers. The silence in the shrine's cool rooms is remarkable after the glare outside.
Fuel and supplies are the crux. The nearest town with any reliable service is Shetpe, farther along the main road, and even that will not be near. Fill every tank and container you can, and carry more water than you expect to drink, plus food, spare tubes and a basic repair kit. Telephone coverage drops away in the gullies. Check that you have permissions for the border zone in the region, because some parts of western Kazakhstan are controlled, and tell someone back in town where you are heading and when you plan to return.