Sesriem is the gate to the dunes. The word means six straps in Afrikaans, and the name comes from the early settlers, who tied six leather thongs together to lower a bucket into the narrow canyon here, which holds water long after the rains. The junction sits at the entrance to the Namib-Naukluft Park, in the heart of the Namib desert, and from it a tarred road runs sixty kilometres to Sossusvlei, a white clay pan surrounded by some of the tallest dunes in the world, which rise to around three hundred metres and glow orange and red at sunrise.
The riding here is a mix of gravel and sand. The roads in the surrounding country, including the D707, are mostly gravel, with corrugations, soft patches and occasional rocky sections, and they cross wide plains of pale grass, with the red dunes on one side and rocky mountains on the other. Wind blows hard, especially in the afternoon, and dust can reduce visibility. In the early morning and evening, the light is magnificent, and the shadows on the dunes are sharp. Temperatures vary widely, from cool, even cold, nights to hot days, and rain, though rare, can flood the dry riverbeds.
The park gates open at sunrise and close at sunset, so those who want to see the dunes at first light need to stay in the campsite inside the gate, and a fee is charged at the entrance. The final stretch to Sossusvlei is deep sand, and most visitors leave their vehicle at a car park and take a shuttle. Sesriem Canyon, a narrow gorge about thirty metres deep, is a short walk from the entrance, and offers shade. Dune 45, beside the road, is easy to climb, though the sand is heavy.
Fuel is available at Sesriem, but supplies can be limited, so arrive with a full tank, and carry more if you plan to explore the gravel roads. Solitaire, about eighty kilometres north, has a petrol station, a small shop and a bakery famous for its apple pie. Carry plenty of water, since the desert is dry and the sun is strong.
Stay for sunset if you can. The shadows climbing the dunes are a lasting memory.