At the top of the serra the road eases, the forest gives way to open grassland and araucaria pines, and the whole sky seems to widen. The viewpoint here looks back down over the escarpment, and on a clear morning you can watch cloud pour into the valleys beneath you like milk. The altitude is around 1,400 metres or more, and the temperature is noticeably cooler, with frost possible on winter nights.
Lauro Muller is about twenty-four kilometres behind, and the nearest large towns, such as Sao Joaquim on the plateau, are farther on. There is little here beyond a few kiosks and small stalls, and fuel is not available at the viewpoint, so plan ahead. The plateau towns have services, and the local specialities include hot pinhao, the nut of the araucaria, roasted in winter, along with sausages, cheese and good apples.
This part of Santa Catarina is the coldest in Brazil, and in some winters snow falls on the high ground, drawing crowds from the rest of the country who are rarely able to see it. The plateau, known as the Serra Catarinense, has a distinct culture of cattle ranching and farming, and the region is also gaining recognition for its wine, produced in cool vineyards at high altitude.
Riding along the plateau is a relaxed contrast to the climb. The road is wide, the curves are gentle, and the landscape is open, with long views over rolling hills. Wind can be sharp, and the weather changes quickly, with morning mist giving way to sun. On the way back down, take extra care, since heavy braking and cold tyres can be a poor mix. Late afternoon light on the escarpment is lovely, and a stop at the viewpoint to see the lights of the coast begin to twinkle is a fitting end to the day.