The Serra do Itapitangui rises behind Cananéia, on the southern coast of São Paulo state, a modest coastal range covered in dense Atlantic Forest that looks down on one of the best-preserved estuaries in Brazil. The forest here is part of the Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, which protects a vast area of forest, mangroves and coastal islands stretching from São Paulo into Paraná. The Mata Atlântica once covered much of Brazil's coast; today, only a fraction remains, and this region holds some of the largest and best-preserved stretches.
The forest is a riot of life: giant trees draped with bromeliads, orchids and lianas, palms, tree ferns and countless species of birds, butterflies and frogs. Toucans, parrots and tanagers flash through the canopy, and if you are lucky you might see a howler monkey or a capuchin. From the hills, the views over the estuary, the channels, the mangroves and the islands are spectacular, especially at sunset.
Cananéia, at the foot of the hills, is one of the oldest towns in Brazil, with a small historic centre of colonial houses and churches. It is the gateway to the Ilha do Cardoso State Park, an island of forest, beaches and traditional fishing communities, reached by boat. The estuary is a nursery for fish and shellfish, and Cananéia is famous for its oysters, farmed in the mangroves and served fresh or grilled in the restaurants along the waterfront.
The riding is relaxed. The road to Cananéia from the BR-116 runs through farmland and forest, with some curves and hills, and the roads around the town are quiet, with views of the water and the mangroves. The climate is hot and humid, with heavy rain in summer, so be ready for downpours and slippery roads. Cananéia, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and Cajati and Jacupiranga, inland, are larger towns on the highway. Try oysters with lime, fried fish with rice and beans, or a moqueca, a fish stew with coconut milk and palm oil.