There is nothing glamorous about this spot, and that is its charm. It lies on the flat lands south of the Tagus, in the region between Alcochete and the town of Poceirão, a country of cork oaks, pine plantations, sandy soil and straight roads. After a long day in the mountains of the Serra da Estrela, this is where the Lisbon area starts to wrap itself around you again.
The area belongs to the Setúbal Peninsula, an unglamorous but fascinating piece of Portugal. It is low, sandy and wooded, with sections of old cork forest, shepherds' tracks and agricultural fields, and the Tagus estuary glints a few kilometres to the north. Alcochete, the closest sizeable town, is an old fishing and salt-working settlement on the river's edge, and its saltpans still draw flamingos and other waders. The town also has a bullfighting tradition in the surrounding fields, and local horses and cattle are an everyday sight.
The most striking feature of the neighbourhood is the Vasco da Gama Bridge, which crosses the Tagus nearby. At around seventeen kilometres in total length including the viaducts, it was opened in 1998 and counts among the longest bridges in Europe. Crossing it, especially on a bike with a tailwind, gives you a sense of vast water on both sides and the Lisbon skyline growing in the distance. There is a toll in the direction of Lisbon, so keep a little money or a payment device ready.
The riding here is not about corners. It is about straight, fast, flat carriageways, roundabouts and some rather ordinary industrial edges, so pay attention to traffic merging, particularly in the afternoon rush. For those who like a gentler end to the day, quieter lanes thread through the cork oaks and the vineyards of the nearby wine area. Fuel is plentiful in Alcochete, Samora Correia and along the main roads, and there are good simple restaurants serving grilled fish, bread, and the sweet pastries Portugal does so well.
Look for the evening light over the estuary, when the water turns pink and the bridge lights come on. It is a gentle way to end a big ride.