Yangpyeong is about ten kilometres to the north-east, and the city of Gwangju, about thirteen kilometres south-west, has about eighty thousand people. The valleys here are green, with small farms, orchards and pine woods on the slopes.
The road from here leads to Seoraksan, the mountain park on the east coast, and this is the first or last part of a weekend ride. The roads are winding and quiet in the hills, with bends, short climbs and wide views, and the surface is good. Autumn is the best season, when the leaves turn and the air is crisp, and winter has ice on the shaded roads. Traffic is light on weekdays, but on sunny weekends the lanes fill with cyclists and cars heading to restaurants.
This part of Gwangju has a lot of history. The Joseon kings drew their porcelain from kilns at Bunwon, in the Gwangju hills, and the royal ceramics produced there are among the finest in Korean art. A museum and kiln site near Gwangju tell the story. Nearby, Namhansanseong, a mountain fortress on the ridge, is a UNESCO site, with a long wall and gates, where King Injo took refuge during the Manchu invasion of 1636.
Fuel and food are easy enough, with stations in Gwangju and Docheok, and many restaurants in the valleys. The area is known for its country cooking, with stews, pancakes and grilled fish, often served in a traditional house with floor seating. A bowl of hot soup on a cool day is a joy.
Stop if you see a kiln chimney or a pottery sign. The craft here is old, and a bowl made by hand is a lasting souvenir.