An old stone bridge arches over a stream in the forest on the way up to Seonamsa, and the view through its curve to a pavilion beyond is one of the best known images of Korean temple architecture. The Seungseongyo bridge dates back to the Joseon period, and the temple behind it, on the slopes of Jogyesan mountain near Suncheon, has a history going back to the ninth century. Seonamsa is one of seven Korean Buddhist mountain monasteries listed in 2018 as Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries in Korea, chosen because they have remained centres of living religious practice for over a thousand years.
The temple is the head of the Taego order, which allows married monks, and its halls, gardens and old trees, including famous plum trees that blossom in early spring, give it a peaceful, unpolished charm. A path over the mountain links it with Songgwangsa, one of the three jewel temples of Korea, on the other side of Jogyesan, a walk of several hours.
Suncheon Bay, south of the city, is one of the most important coastal wetlands in Korea, with vast reed beds and tidal flats, home to cranes in winter and part of the Getbol, Korean Tidal Flats World Heritage Site. The reeds turn golden in autumn, and the sunset from the observatory over the bay is spectacular. The Suncheon Bay National Garden, created for an expo, is a huge park nearby.
The riding here is pleasant, with national roads along the coast and into the mountains, light traffic and good surfaces. The road to Seonamsa climbs through forest along a stream, and the coastal roads around Yeosu and Goheung offer views over islands and sea. Expressways are closed to motorcycles.
Suncheon, fifteen kilometres away, has fuel, banks and simple restaurants, and Beolgyo, on the coast, is known for its cockles, served in many ways in local restaurants. Suncheon's food is excellent, as everywhere in Jeolla.