Bulguksa sits on the lower slopes of Tohamsan, a forested mountain above Gyeongju, and it is the most famous Buddhist temple in Korea. It was largely built in the eighth century under the Silla kingdom, at a time when Gyeongju was its capital and one of the largest cities in Asia, and tradition credits the work to the minister Kim Dae-seong. Stone staircases and terraces from that time still carry the wooden halls, which have been rebuilt after fires and wars, most destructively during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s.
In the main courtyard stand two stone pagodas that every Korean schoolchild knows. Dabotap is intricate and almost playful, with balustrades and stairs carved in granite; Seokgatap beside it is simple and severe. Seen together they feel like a conversation between two ideas of beauty. Arrive early on a weekday to have the courtyards nearly to yourself; by mid-morning the school groups pour in.
From the temple a road climbs up Tohamsan to Seokguram, and this is the part for a rider. It is a winding mountain road with tight bends through thick forest, steep in places and busy with tour buses at peak times, so ride it with care and look out for cyclists. At the top, a short walk leads to the grotto, an artificial cave built of granite blocks in the eighth century, housing a seated Buddha facing east toward the sea. The statue is now behind glass, but its calm and the precision of the dome above it are remarkable. Locals have long climbed here before dawn to watch the sun rise over the East Sea, and on a clear morning it is worth the early start.
Gyeongju is often called a museum without walls. Grassy royal tombs rise like small hills in the middle of town, the Cheomseongdae observatory stands in a field, and the reconstructed pavilions of Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond are reflected in the water at night. Lake Bomun, between the town and the temple, is lined with cherry trees that make April the busiest and prettiest month.
Fuel and food are easy in Gyeongju and the surrounding towns. Bear in mind that motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways, so plan routes on national roads, which are often more interesting anyway. Try Gyeongju bread, a small round pastry filled with sweet red bean, and a bowl of ssambap, rice with a spread of leaves and side dishes, in one of the restaurants near the tombs.