Seogwipo is the main town on the south coast of Jeju Island, with about a hundred and fifty thousand people, and it faces the open ocean with Mount Halla behind. Jeju is a volcanic island, and the southern coast has some of its finest scenery, with black basalt cliffs, waterfalls and small islands. The town itself is relaxed and pleasant, with a lively harbour, seafood restaurants and an old-fashioned market, the Maeil Olle, where you can buy tangerines, fish and snacks.
The island is famous for its tangerines, which are grown on terraced orchards across the south, and you often see the fruit stacked in baskets at the roadside in winter. Another symbol of Jeju is the haenyeo, women divers who plunge into the sea without breathing equipment to collect abalone, sea urchins and seaweed, a tradition that has been recognised by UNESCO. You can sometimes see them at work near the shore, and some restaurants serve their catch fresh from the sea.
Close to town are several sights. Jeongbang Falls drops straight into the ocean, an extraordinary sight, and Cheonjiyeon Falls lies in a lush forest with a path from the car park. Further west, the Jusangjeolli cliffs, a row of hexagonal basalt columns that look like stacked logs, rise from the shore, battered by the waves. Oedolgae, a sea stack of rock that stands alone in the water, is another landmark.
The riding on Jeju is delightful. The coastal road circles the island, with open views, gentle curves and little traffic outside the holiday season. In summer and on weekends, tourist traffic can be heavy, particularly around the popular sights, and rental scooters and cars share the road. Wind blows hard on the coast, and weather can change fast, with sudden fog or rain.
Fuel stations are common in Seogwipo and across the island, so there is no problem. Jeju City, almost thirty kilometres away, is the other main centre. A fresh seafood meal by the harbour is the best end to the day.