Semonkong means place of smoke, and the name comes from the plume of spray thrown up by the Maletsunyane Falls, which drop nearly two hundred metres in a single leap into a gorge a short walk from the village. It is a small settlement in the mountains of central Lesotho, a place of stone houses, sheep pens and a handful of lodges, with a reputation among adventurous travellers that far outweighs its size.
The ride is one of the great gravel and tarmac mixes in southern Africa. The road from Maseru climbs steadily into the mountains, with long, winding bends, views across high, bare valleys and herders on horseback appearing round every corner. The surface alternates between good tarmac and rough, potholed patches, and the final stretches can be gravel or broken tarmac, depending on the year and the weather. Livestock, minibus taxis and children walking to school share the road, so ride with care. The weather is changeable, with sudden storms in summer and heavy snow in winter, so check the forecast.
Semonkong is known for its extreme activities. Pony trekking is the traditional way to explore the region, using the sure-footed Basotho ponies that have been bred for these mountains, and a guided ride to the falls or along the gorge is a gentle way to spend a day. A commercial abseil descends beside the falls and is promoted as one of the longest of its kind in the world, and the very brave tackle it. Visitors can also fish for trout in the cold streams, and winter brings a short season of snow.
The landscape is dramatic. The Maletsunyane river runs across a high plateau before plunging over the lip of the falls, and below the drop the gorge is deep and green. The surrounding hills are treeless, dotted with stone villages and terraced fields of maize and sorghum, and the light in the evening turns the grass orange. The air is cool and thin, and on a still night the sound of water carries a long way.
Fuel may be limited here, so fill in Maseru or at the last big town before arriving. Stock up on food, bring warm clothes, and be ready for a bumpy, memorable ride.