The Semois is one of the most winding rivers in Europe, and it spends its time in the southern Belgian Ardennes carving deep, looping meanders through a forested plateau of slate and sandstone. The roads here follow the loops, climbing out of the valley and dropping back to the water, so that in a single morning you cross and recross the river and look down on the same bend from several angles. Bertrix is the nearest sizeable town, and Herbeumont, with its ruined castle on a rocky spur above the river, is the prettiest of the villages.
The valley has a character of its own. The houses are built from local grey slate, with roofs of the same stone, and the villages sit tight against the hillsides. The Semois is also known for tobacco, one of the few places in Belgium where it is grown, a tradition that goes back a long way, and you may still see tobacco leaves drying in barns in late summer. Walkers, canoeists and cyclists all come here, and the river is a favourite for kayaks in warm weather.
For a rider, it is a serious pleasure. The corners are tight and frequent, the road surface is generally good, and the forest closes in on both sides so that the light flickers through the trees. The viewpoints over the river meanders, such as the one at Rochehaut, are among the most famous in Belgium, and are worth a stop. Take it steadily, because the roads are narrow, and there is local traffic, tractors and logging trucks. Belgium is strict with speed cameras, so keep an eye on the limits in villages.
The Ardennes forest is dense and old, with beech, oak and spruce, and it is home to red deer, roe deer and wild boar. They cross the roads at dawn and dusk, so slow down in those hours. In autumn, the forest smells of damp leaves and mushrooms, and mist hangs in the valley in the mornings. Winters here can be cold and foggy, with ice on the roads, and many places close for the season.
Bertrix has fuel, supermarkets and a few places to eat, about four kilometres away, and Chiny, further along the river, has more. Smaller villages have a bakery or a cafe, but it pays to plan lunch. Local specialities include ham from the Ardennes, game in season and a fine local beer.