Selva di Cadore is a quiet village on the road between two big names, in the Fiorentina valley, with Monte Pelmo on one side and the great wall of the Civetta on the other. It is not a place that most people choose as a destination, and that is part of its appeal. A handful of houses, a church, a few hotels and a ski lift sit in a green bowl, and above them the Pelmo, with its flat, throne-like summit, dominates the view. The mountain is known locally as the throne of God, and when the light catches it at the end of the day, it is easy to see why.
The village belongs to the Ladin cultural area, and the neighbouring Colle Santa Lucia, only a couple of kilometres away, is one of the Ladin-speaking communities that keep their language and traditions alive in the face of Italian and German. The Dolomites were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009, and this part of the range, with its high walls and its pale rock, is one of the finest.
The riding is excellent in both directions. Heading east from Selva, the road climbs towards Passo Giau, at 2,236 metres, with long sequences of hairpins through meadows and then open rock, and the summit area is a high saddle with a cluster of huts and spectacular views. It is one of the finest passes in the Dolomites and the road, though narrow in places, is well surfaced. From there you can continue to Passo Falzarego and loop back via Cortina or the Livinallongo valley. In the other direction, the road climbs over Passo Staulanza, below the Pelmo, and down to the Zoldo valley. Traffic is moderate, though weekends in July and August bring more bikes and cyclists.
Weather in these mountains can change quickly, with morning sunshine turning to afternoon thunderstorms, and snow can close the higher passes from autumn to late spring. At the top of the Giau, the wind can be cold even in summer, so bring a windproof layer.
There is little in the village itself, though there are a couple of cafes and small shops, and local dishes such as casunziei, a stuffed pasta with beetroot, or polenta with mushrooms are worth trying. Fuel is limited, and the larger town of Cortina d'Ampezzo, about twelve kilometres away, has stations and plenty of services, so fill there before heading for the high passes.
Late June brings flowers to the pastures, and September offers crisp air and golden larches on the slopes.